Meet Kaoru, Geisha Proprietress
“We’re not just entertainers—we’re facilitators of connection. And we approach each gathering with a spirit of hospitality.”
Clad in elegant kimono, with hairpieces adorned and the iconic white makeup covering their faces, geisha are masters of entertainment and the arts.
Amid Tokyo’s vast cityscape, hanamachi—geisha districts—remain quietly interwoven, nurturing traditions that span centuries. Among them lies Akasaka, a more intimate hanamachi that blossomed during the Meiji era, once attracting high-ranking figures from nearby government offices and financial institutions.
At its peak, the district was home to more than 400 geisha, women who combined refined conversation with rigorous mastery of dance, music, and instruments such as the koto and shamisen.
Today, fewer than 20 geisha continue to practice in Akasaka, their dedication ensuring that the elegance and artistry of this cultural heritage endures for generations to come. Deeper Japan talked with Kaoru-san, a former geisha of the Asakusa hanamachi and a current geisha proprietress, who continues to carry on the geisha tradition of heritage and hospitality.
Q: First, can you tell us a bit about this ryotei here in Akasaka—what kind of place it is and what happens here?
A: Our ryotei was established around 40 to 50 years ago by a master of the Fujima school of Japanese dance. Over the years, the original proprietress stepped back and passed the torch to me, and I now serve as the okami, or hostess.
Akasaka itself was once a bustling karyukai—a traditional geisha district—with many ryotei and geisha houses. Sadly, their numbers have dwindled, and today, only two traditional ryotei remain in Akasaka, including ours.
To help preserve this cultural heritage, our company took over the operation of this historic ryotei. I’ve returned as okami, having originally started out as a geisha in Akasaka myself. After graduating from geisha training, I balanced managing a business with performing. And now, I’m back in this role, hoping to keep the traditions of the karyukai alive.
As someone who grew up in this world, my sincere hope is to pass on this unique Japanese cultural heritage alongside our current geisha community.
Q: What first inspired you to become a geisha? And what has kept you connected to the world of geisha over the years?
A: I’ve been studying Japanese dance since I was a child—my mother was a dance teacher, so I started around the age of four. I always wanted to continue dancing.
My teacher at the time also taught in Akasaka, and she encouraged me to become a geisha so I could keep dancing professionally. That’s how I entered the Akasaka karyukai. I was fortunate to be part of what was considered the last great era for geisha—those years were truly joyful.
Eventually, I stepped away to focus on teaching and managing a business. But now, I’ve returned. Back when I started, there were over 200 geisha in Akasaka. Even when I left, there were still around 120. Now, we’re down to fewer than 20.
It’s a disappearing tradition—some call us an endangered species. But ozashiki culture is so rich: from kimono and music to conversation and seasonal cuisine, it's a blend of Japan’s finest artistic traditions.
Today, many Japanese people don’t even know how to properly enjoy this type of entertainment. But I believe it’s important to preserve it, even if only a little at a time. If I can be of service in that effort, I’m more than happy to do what I can.
In Japan’s traditional performing arts, whether kabuki or anything else, it has always been passed down from childhood. For geisha as well, they have continued to carry on the culture of Japanese dance, hayashi musical accompaniment, and shamisen. When ordinary young women learn these arts, their practice usually ends once they marry or have children. But for geisha, the tradition is handed down through the generations: seniors teaching juniors in turn, ensuring that the art continues unbroken to the present day in every region. In that sense, geisha are bearers of Japanese culture, and it’s important to preserve this.
Even the hair ornaments, kimono, and accessories that the geisha we saw earlier wear—all of these things are nurtured and created by Japanese culture, one by one. That is why I feel strongly that they must not be lost. Going forward, we hope that people will continue to come, experience, and enjoy these traditions. There’s nothing difficult about it—it’s simply a matter of relaxing and having fun. At an ozashiki gathering, guests enjoy food and conversation in an easygoing way, while also watching geisha perform dances. Meals are usually traditional Japanese courses, featuring a variety of seasonal flavors presented beautifully.
Q: How is the experience at a ryotei different from dining at a typical Japanese restaurant or izakaya?
A: The biggest difference is that those places don’t have geisha. In a ryotei, the geisha serve as hosts—not just pouring drinks, but enhancing the conversation and creating a memorable experience.
In the past, Japanese guests would often return regularly, building rapport with specific geisha and becoming gohii-ki (favorite patrons). Through repeated visits, a friendly, even playful relationship would naturally develop.
Our job is to make guests feel welcome, to create a warm and engaging environment where conversation flows easily—even in formal settings like business receptions.
We’re not just entertainers—we’re facilitators of connection. And we approach each gathering with a spirit of hospitality.
Q: At Deeper Japan, we aim to give international travelers a doorway into authentic Japanese culture. Kyoto is a natural starting point, but we believe Tokyo’s karyukai deserves the same attention. What do you hope guests experience when they spend time here?
In Japan, people often associate geisha culture with Kyoto, especially geiko and maiko. But Tokyo also has its own rich geisha tradition. Edo-style geisha have a slightly different energy—crisp, dynamic, and sharp. Akasaka today is seen mostly as an office district, but it was once full of vibrant ryotei and gathering places in the evening. Unlike regular restaurants, ryotei offer completely private rooms where guests can enjoy undisturbed conversation, knowing their time together is discreet and respected.
The most important thing is that guests simply enjoy themselves: have a meal, engage in conversation, and share time with the geisha. It’s not complicated or formal—we just hope guests feel free to relax and have fun. Even playing simple games or having conversations with the geisha can lead to meaningful connections. If guests feel at ease, laugh a little, and leave with a deeper appreciation of Japan’s cultural heart, then we’ve done our job.
At the same time, it’s a cultural exchange. We learn so much from our overseas guests—what parts of Japanese culture interest them, what surprises them. These interactions are deeply meaningful for us as well.
Kaoru-san invites all to join her in her traditional Akasaka ryotei for a night of geisha performance and kaiseki dining, a rare opportunity to interact with the living heritage of geisha.
Feast on a meal utilizing seasonal ingredients while viewing traditional geisha performances at a historic restaurant located in central Tokyo.
Meet More Masters
Discover Cultural Experiences
