Meet Junichi, Wagashi Confectioner
“Even if the shape is not perfect, the wagashi that these visitors make are beautiful, because they are doing their best and pouring themselves into it.”
Junichi creates intricate confections at a traditional Kyoto sweet shop that is over 200 years old.
In addition to producing delicious creations, he also strives to convey the wonder of Japanese sweets through workshops for both local and foreign guests.
Through these workshops, participants can experience first-hand the special features of Kyogashi (Kyoto wagashi).
Unlike Kanto (Tokyo area) wagashi, Kyogashi has a gentleness in its coloring and shape. While still vibrant and colorful, Kyogashi has a distinguishing refinement and reserve.
This is reflective of the Kyoto aesthetic principle of ‘hannari’, a sense of quiet beauty, a muted brightness. In addition to its particular coloring, the shape of Kyogashi is also a little more subdued than Kanto wagashi, showcasing a style that is smoother, simpler and rounder in shape.
These differences between Kansai and Kanto pop out most vividly in the context of tea ceremonies. Kanto wagashi, gorgeous in its coloring and intricate shapes, almost plays a lead role at tea ceremonies. However, in Kansai, it’s understood that the tea should always be the center of attention, and so the wagashi is made to complement the tea, never to overshadow it. Junichi explained that if the wagashi is too bright and competes with the leading role that is the tea, this can detract and interfere with enjoying the taste of the tea itself.
Compared to Western desserts, traditional Japanese wagashi sweets are relatively simple and minimal in their ingredients, and so the quality of each ingredient is critical. The wagashi at this Kyoto shop is delicious, in part because this shop was intentionally established close to a fresh water spring and the wagashi is made using this high-quality water.
Wagashi, traditional Japanese confections, have a long and layered history that reflects Japan’s cultural, spiritual, and artistic evolution. The roots of wagashi date back over a thousand years to the Heian period (794–1185), when sweets made from natural ingredients such as fruits and nuts were consumed primarily by the aristocracy. However, it wasn’t until the introduction of refined sugar from China and later from Europe in the 16th century that wagashi began to take on the diverse forms we recognize today. During the Edo period (1603–1868), as tea culture flourished among the samurai and merchant classes, wagashi evolved further as an essential accompaniment to chanoyu, or the Japanese tea ceremony. Artisans began crafting visually expressive sweets that complemented the spiritual, seasonal, and aesthetic ideals of the tea tradition.
Over the centuries, wagashi continued to be refined across regions, with Kyoto in particular emerging as a major center of confectionery artistry. Techniques such as nerikiri (sculpted bean paste sweets) and yōkan (sweet jellied confections) developed alongside innovations in tools, ingredients, and presentation. While wagashi served a ceremonial role, it also became an important part of everyday life, offered at shrines, gifted on special occasions, and sold in neighborhood shops. Despite the influx of Western desserts in the modern era, wagashi has maintained its cultural significance, representing a deep-rooted appreciation for craftsmanship, transience, and harmony.
Join Junichi-san in his Kyoto studio, where you’ll explore the rich history of wagashi and its cultural significance in Japanese tea ceremonies.
Observe the meticulous process of shaping and coloring these edible works of art, and gain insight into the seasonal inspirations behind his creations.
With deep respect for centuries-old techniques and a passion for innovation, he invites visitors of all ages to experience the beauty and precision behind each handcrafted sweet.
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